[Pigging by Wilfrid: October 24, 2016]
I read a reference this morning to M.Wells Steakhouse in Queens, and I had the sudden thought: that's the place Cockscomb reminded me of. But I think it's really that Cockscomb has captured a part of that Zeitgeist shared by any number of restaurants in New York and elsewhere.
An industrial space in an unexpected location, bright and buzzy inside, serving hearty--and yes, "meat forward" food: a very 2016 mix of rough charm and elegance. Cockscomb has a very good feel to it.