[Pigging by Wilfrid: August 10, 2007]
We looked at WD-50 soup to nuts back in May of this year, but it's one of those restaurants wise diners keep an eye on. Chef Wylie must brood constantly, because he's always hatching new dishes and sneaking them onto the menu.
But first - what's up with the bread?
Some things never seem to change, and since day one, rather than offer a bread basket, WD-50 had teased diners with skinny crisp flatbread, speckled black with toasted sesame seeds. Suddenly it went white. Soft white sesame seeds. And we liked it even more.
This was a light supper at the bar, which happened to confirm my impression that WD-50 entreés, once legendarily petites, are now large enough to be split. Two appetizers to start, the always excellent firm, smoked eel, and the one which had pulled me off the street: fried quail.
Now, you can bone and stuff and roast or spatchcock and grill a quail, but you don't see it fried every day. This little bird had been boned and rolled into a soft ball of flesh. Breaded, it looked a little like a scotch egg; fried, the center of the globe remained bloodily rare. Good contrast of textures. What's happening in the middle of the plate is one of those Wylie Dufresne signature surprises: a banana tartare - sweet, creamy banana, garnished with the odd nasturtium leaf.
Let's just say it's not an obvious combination, and it will set some diners' teeth on edge. But the quail itself - very good. The split entreé was a velvety duck breast with a puddle of intense snow pea pureé.
Some shreds of smoked hen o' the woods are detectable there. The surprise this time - that's granola garnishing the meat. Yes, slightly sweet and syrupy granola. Duck with sweetness - that's a convention - and I guess the crunchiness stood in for a crispy skin. There was a rhubarb component too. Elusive. I think it may have been in there with the mushrooms, but don't quote me.
The Wylie is here, as ever.
