EV Special: Quick Bites At Seymour B., Belcourt and Back Forty
[Pigging by Wilfrid: March 24, 2008]
Seriously Seymour is still packing 'em in. Who can resist a tangle like this.
Aioli, ketchup, some spreadable oily white bean stuff off to the side, a burger lurking in the background. It's relentless cheerful. And East Village residents should be cheerful too: what with Terroir, Belcourt, Back Forty, Seymour Burton, one hardly needs to leave the neighborhood for dinner.
Scroll down for re-runs of Back Forty and Belcourt.
Seymour Burton
Not that everything runs smoothly at this popular 5th Street newcomer, which still looks partly under construction. As previously discussed herein, the kitchen is played like a Jerry Garcia guitar solo - pretty bits, discordant bits, a certain sense that it knows not where it's going, and it can take a while to get there too.
Previous visits have delivered prompt food, but a recent weekend evening drop in showed an operation deeply but cheerfully in the weeds. Appetizers were coming out one by one to give tables something to gnaw on while the kitchen scrambled to get its head around the possibility of entrées.
On the whole, this provided nothing but idle entertainment - the kitchen is not so much open as gaping - but one dish did suffer.
The Brook trout didn't exactly leap from the plate with freshness, but the flat flavor was compounded by the fact that it arrived cold (so did the trout at a nearby table, which was sent back). It had been cooked, then cooled its metaphorical heels while the kitchen turned its attention to getting some starters fired.
Following a refreshing salad of escarole garnished with sharp, silver boquerones, I quite enjoyed a plate of soft polenta with mushrooms.
Each appetizer was sent out for the table when ready; as I said, a strategy to buy time for the kitchen, but quite acceptable.
You can't seem to go wrong with the fries, though, skinny and addictive. For the first time, I tried the burger - sanctified by the Times's resident patty Pope, Peter Meehan. Hefty and juicy with some chunks of what seemed to be cheddar, cooked medium rare as requested, and served on a sturdy, bready muffin.
Back Forty
As I expected, Peter Hoffman's Back Forty on Avenue B has remained solidly popular since it opened late last year, thanks to a shrewd concept and Shanna Pacifico's imaginative and flavorful cooking.
It's usually possible to grab a bar seat, just off peak, so I returned recently to refresh myself. In November 2007 I wrote:
"With the look and feel of a neighborly inn, rather than a destination restaurant, I hope the "Core" of the menu expands somewhat, or is at least supplemented by specials... But it's early days, and maybe that's all in the works."
And they've chosen the latter route. Anyone of catholic tastes could eat here weekly without tiring of the succinct menu, because special appetizers and mains are always offered. Much tempted by the lamb shoulder special, I regretfully concluded my appetite wasn't up to it. I did, however, suck down the appetizer special, awkwardly but appealingly described as nuggets of pork jowl.
Nuggets they were, apparently slow-cooked, then breaded and fried. Crunchy surface and nice fatty gloop within. Each was speared with a slice of pickled radish, and they rested on a cilantro-jalapeño - I don't know, coulis? A kind of leafy sauce, in any case, more cilantro than spicy.
I followed with a selection from the regular menu, crab cakes (flat, loose, fine), and a side I hadn't tried before: black beans cooked with little sticky pieces of pig's trotter - yes, it's that ever-reliable "add some pork" strategy again. Dish-lickingly good.
Belcourt
If Belcourt was just a little more peaceful in the evenings, this is another place I could return to every couple of weeks. This is another local success story, and how nice at an early Sunday dinner hour to see the owner sitting there enjoying the food.
A Mouthfuls expert drew my attention to the juicy half roast chicken, a subtle spice mix rubbed into the crisp skin, served with a mountain of water-cress. A hint of Morocco about it, thanks to the spices and the lemon, and really two people could share this dish. Fortunately, it's good next day too, sliced and eaten with a salad.
Also worth investigation, the shrimp served over a tomatoey Romesco sauce. Three big critters to the order, heads on - ready to be pulled off and sucked - seriously shrimpy and tasty.
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