[Pigging by Wilfrid: January 18, 2016]
"We go back a long way," Marco Canora reminded me. "Twelve years." It seems only yesterday that Hearth, on the corner of East 12th and First Avenue, celebrated it's tenth anniversary, but in fact that was November 2013; and to my amazement, it's probably a couple of years more than that since I've eaten here.
There's always the chase to the next new place, of course, but I'd enjoyed Hearth solidly from its early days--when people were still surprised that a fine dining chef would open a joint in the East Village--it predates the first Momofuku by two years, Degustation by three--to the last time I showed up at the chef's counter for a fine duck dish, and a complementary taste of a duck liver pâté the restaurant was fine tuning.
When I saw the news of a major menu overhaul, it was time to go back.